Sale PSA: Strappy sandals from Sam Edelman, now $90 (I like these, they look walkable too), a simple cotton cardigan from Everlane, now $26, and a very cute cape cardigan from BR, now $82 (what’s with the final sale though)?
Over the last few weeks I think at least a dozen people have sent me this piece from from The Cut, about the rich NY women who love their fake Birkins. It’s a great article!! And course, I’m very interested. And flattered that so many people would know I was interested in it, haha.
I was originally just going to include a link in my weekend update, but have been thinking about this article the past few weeks. I have thoughts, of course. Unfortunately my thoughts aren’t very organized.
Before reading the piece from The Cut I’d already accessed the “Repladies” section on Reddit a few times…I went back in my blog archives and I first shared an article about the forum from Elle, last October. At the time I remember going down a rabbit hole after I discovered the forum…to a point where I had to basically stop cold turkey because it was going to suck away my whole afternoon.
I know that there are a lot of negative aspects about the replica industry. At the same time, and I’m really being super honest here – once you start reading those threads and thinking about it all, you do feel a little tempted. At least I did. There are so many items and they all seem to be available for so much less! Why am I being an idiot and paying $$$$ when there are items that look exactly the same? Getting the side eye from Hermes salespeople when I mistakenly try to walk into the store without an appointment (happened again to me last week!!). But for myself…I wouldn’t feel good carrying a replica…for a variety of reasons. The ethics, most of all. I was really surprised that the article didn’t address the actual conditions in some of these replica factories…the labor that is used and exploited. I wish it had and that exploitation is something I would want to know more about. I feel that is a huge angle that was missed – and I wish that question had also been posed to some of the women who buy fake Birkins – who they believe produces them (and maybe it’s well paid artisans, but either way, I’d like to learn more).
But on top of that, I also work in a creative industry myself. I know very well what it’s like to my have my work copied (pirated). It comes with the territory. But as a creator it can still sting.
That said. I do think someone like myself (aka, little known author) is in a different position than say, LVMH. Over the weeks as I thought about this article I felt a little bit disgusted, both with the people buying replicas but also the luxury brands themselves….for charging so damn much! And myself as well, for paying those prices. But at the end of the day, Chanel isn’t breaking the law for charging $8K or whatever it is now for a classic flap….they put it for sale and people freely buy it on the open market. It’s different than actively seeking out items that are clearly copies of someone else’s design and work.
One thing I did feel icky about is people who buy super fakes who then return them to places like Fashionphile/The Real Real – I wonder how often fakes do get through (I would think TRR is the bigger risk). I know buying replicas is fraud already, but I think selling them and misleading others is another level. That last sentence in the article, when the woman at the consignment store offers her a buyout for her fake Gucci…that sucked.
I would hope that the people buying fake items wouldn’t be doing that. I would hope it is just for their own personal enjoyment. Do I support replicas personally, absolutely not. Do I think people who buy replicas are doing an illegal act, yes. But I also think there are different “levels” of ethics being broken. Either way, I would love to hear your thoughts.
14 Comments
Hayley
May 16, 2022 at 9:43 amMy understanding is that the factories that produce replicas overlap a great deal with factories that produce other made-in-china goods (clothing bags shoes etc) so unless one doesn’t buy any made in China goods due to labor concerns I don’t really buy those “labor exploitation” arguments.
Kat
May 16, 2022 at 10:56 amInteresting point! I think it’s a very nuanced and interesting debate
Xin
May 16, 2022 at 10:16 amI’m also not unfamiliar with the Repladies group on Reddit. It’s fascinating to read about, though I am not a customer for a large number of reasons. I could never carry something if I thought people could tell (and I think there often are at least some “tells” for something being counterfeit, including that the leather just doesn’t particularly look or feel the same because it isn’t the same). Among other issues, it’s also very much a “buyer beware” market, you don’t actually know what you’ll receive or if you’ll receive anything at all (though straight up not getting anything is not common). It’s also too expensive for me: Leather handbags typically cost at least $100-$200 USD all in, with maybe $200-300+ being a bit more common and with certain brands generally commanding a lot more, and there’s no actual guarantee you’ll receive something that you feel like you can actually use. Frankly, having a habit of shopping on Repladies may be more expensive than my actual shopping habits, which are hardly cheap. Though it does make it very difficult for me to trust the luxury handbag resale market.
I do agree with Hayley that I don’t think the proof for the typical Repladies item (generally purchased direct from dedicated sellers based in mainland China with the strong suggestions that the factories they work with are also based in mainland China) having worse labor exploitation dimensions is there, compared to other “made in China” items. When sources like Dana Thomas’s Deluxe (granted that book was written in 2007, a long time ago now) or news articles make claims about counterfeits being uniquely tied to child exploitation, supporting organized crime, etc. etc., the proof or support often seems thin, and many of those claims are not specific to the exact market that Repladies seems to be focused on. If anyone has a better source for claims like that, I’m open to changing my mind
Kat
May 16, 2022 at 10:57 amI interviewed Dana for the blog! And love her book. I didn’t realize that about the dedicated sellers in mainland China…(I guess I was too busy just looking at the photos, LOL). It’s a really interesting point about fakes versus other “made in China” items.
Sharon
May 16, 2022 at 10:26 amMany years ago I bought a “replica” Birkin. I don’t know what I paid…it was several hundred. It came from China…I picked the color and leather. The bag was beautifully made…but I think I carried it once and sold it…as a replica. I would never buy a real one…could not and would not spend that on a bag. I bought one of those “super fake” LV bags about 20 years ago…gave it to my daughter-in-law…she knew it was fake but wanted it. At this stage of my life I wouldn’t be tempted again.
Montelle Kline
May 21, 2022 at 3:26 pmThe fakes are all over in the open. Years ago they were in nyc (the good ones). Now there all over online including Facebook, poshmark, and the others. My best advice if it seems too good to be true it is.? I do buy used high end bags but I authenticate each and every one. I’ve only been burned one time. I love the used bags because I have someone who makes them look better than they did brand new. Most importantly I’m recycling and it’s less than new now!
shireen
May 16, 2022 at 5:12 pmI read this article last week and was a bit disgusted. The designers have ridiculous markups, so they are not very sympathizable. It’s still theft of their intellectual property. It is also likely that significant percentage of them make their way to resellers and consignment stores, where others could be cheated. Its not really a victimless crime. There seemed to be an underlying attitude that the ladies could afford to buy authentic goods, but that they thought it was a foolish use of money to do so. If I thought something was a waste of money, then I wouldnt want everyone around me to believe that I wasted my money.
Elaine
May 17, 2022 at 8:47 amIt’s pretty selfish to sell replicas to the secondhand market. I could care less if you personally wanted to carry a fake, but to then make money off of it at someone else’s expense is quite despicable. It also taints the secondhand market and prevents it from flourishing as a trusted source of preowned bags. I don’t buy bags from TRR because of fakes (it doesn’t help that they don’t have a return policy on bags– but they must know the volume of fakes on their site).
Groupthink7
May 17, 2022 at 3:50 pmKat, I believe when it comes to the luxury market now, I think it is on its way of being passé. Luxury items are no longer luxury items. It seems that the Hermes, Chanel, and other brands are the new Guess and Levis’s of yester years. These items are no longer special and I think social media has a lot to do with that. Everything is timing. I remember, when Toyota SUV’s, Camrys, and Avalons were considered luxury items. BMWs, Saabs, and Mercedes were the cars of the rich. The old money set had the vintage Rolls and Bentleys. Now these cars are a dime a dozen. This is now the case of luxury items.
Nish
May 18, 2022 at 12:31 amI went to a famous “fake” market in China – AP Plaza in Shanghai and was blown away by the quality and prices. I don’t know about high-end Chanel and Hermes because I haven’t personally used the originals, but the LV, Goyard, Celine, and Michael Kors definitely looked original.
From what I could find out with my limited language skills, these are kind of rejects from the original factory – loose threads, logo improperly stamped, a tear in the lining – which has been mended, but still not meet the brand quality standard.
As far as I could make out – the Michael Kors and Celine bags pretty much had the same leather as the original. The prices were astonishingly low. I didn’t buy any of the fake bags, but I did dip into the designer sneakers, which are ridiculously overpriced in my opinion.
AY
May 18, 2022 at 1:00 pmI didn’t read the article but I also would like to point out fake label industry exploits child labor too and is closely linked to human trafficking. Every purchase of a fake label means the person contributed money to more vicious circle. We really need to raise awareness of this.
Annon
May 19, 2022 at 11:55 am“I was really surprised that the article didn’t address the actual conditions in some of these replica factories…the labor that is used and exploited.”
Humm, something to think about next time you link clothing from fast fashion companies ?
Tracy
May 19, 2022 at 1:36 pmNYTimes ran a long article about the exploitation in Max Mara’s manufacturing. The Italian woman who was interviewed hand sewed a coat and was paid 1 euro an hour for her expert work. A lot of people want to slag off fast fashion but high end designer fashion is is not purer and without sin
Elizabeth
October 19, 2022 at 1:47 amBuying and owning replicas is not a crime in the U.S. Selling them is a crime. That’s how they get away with it. They are not made in the States.