Discussion Style

About Phoebe Philo

I had another post that I wanted to work on for today, but for some reason this weekend I became obsessed with Phoebe Philo. I watched the “new” Celine fashion show, helmed by Hedi Slimane on Friday (as maybe did some of you?) and afterward felt depressed. I know there’s way bigger things to be upset and sad about but I think that’s why fashion should be in this world, to be fun and give you an outlet to feel good, and instead I felt like Hedi’s collection was all about an overpaid man erasing the work of one of the best female designers who wanted to create clothing for women and make them feel strong. Emotional? Who, me?

I wasn’t a big shopper of Celine (I have a bag and a coat and some accessories) but I always loved looking at the collections. I thought that Phoebe was usually designing for a taller, more bold woman than me so I knew that a lot of the pieces I admired wouldn’t work if I tried to wear them, but yet I still looked to them for inspiration and an overall aesthetic. And I thought that Philo herself was someone to aspire to, who had built the sort of career where she could step away for years if she wanted to, and come back when the time was right and dictate her own terms to the world’s biggest luxury conglomerate. I know she’s also been lucky, but I also think she is so talented and has a vision.

So to cheer myself up, I looked at some of her own personal style and also wrote down some learnings for myself.

Stay true to what you like! The first photo in tans above is from 2004 and the second is from the Celine period and you can see how Phoebe has stuck to a certain aesthetic. The sweater, the loose trousers. And it looks comfortable, no? I think one thing I’ve always loved about Philo’s Celine is how it usually looks comfortable.

It’s okay to deviate. OK I know it’s unfair to post a pregnancy photo but when I was looking through Philo photos this is the one that stood out to be as quite different in terms of style. It’s a beautiful top but I’ve never really seen her wear anything like this again and it does look a little dated compared to the rest of her looks (aka, what I wear to mommy and me class present day). But I thought it was charming because we all have days when we experiment, and maybe we even look back and wince a bit, but even the one of the greatest designers has done this herself! And looks thrilled! So let’s not be so hard on ourselves.

Navy and black = chic. I never understood why people say they don’t mix. Why not? It always look so good when I see it! I have a Chanel jacket that has both so I always wear it with black pants (or leggings, ahem, sorry) and feel happy and a bit less boring because I’m not wearing all black.

Outerwear is great (as are sweaters). I have a major outerwear/sweater problem and I have decided to just embrace it because there are few things more beautiful in a wardrobe in my opinion than a gorgeous coat. Or a super comfortable sweater. And there are so many kinds! The leather jacket. The tuxedo jacket. The suede coat. The furry coat.

Some final thoughts…another reason why the “new” Celine was upsetting is I was just thinking about buying a Celine bag and when I was in the boutique, the sales associate told me that “I should buy the bag quick, they’re going to get rid of them, everything is going to change,” which is irritating. It would be one thing if I felt that they would still stand by their product…but I kind of got the feeling that a year from now, if there was a problem, bringing my bag back might get me treated like old news. Who knows what the boutique would look like by that point…all black with a strobe light flashing about. Which is kind of how Hedi’s Celine collection seemed to treat Phoebe’s legacy. Of course he’s just doing his job…and the market has dictated that he is worth a certain $$$ and I’m sure he’ll increase sales. But as for me, I went back to Hermes as usual instead of shopping at Celine. And bought a little something and took it home and felt good about it…which I’m sorry to say, isn’t how I’ll feel anymore about Celine.

What do you think about the old vs new Celine?

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13 Comments

  • Reply
    Sonya
    October 1, 2018 at 10:03 am

    Precisely how I feel. Was so disappointed by the runway show.

  • Reply
    Alisa Gabriel
    October 1, 2018 at 3:30 pm

    Totally with you on this, too. You can “evolve” a brand while honoring its heritage instead of basically dumping it 🙁

  • Reply
    Amy L.
    October 1, 2018 at 3:52 pm

    I completely agree. I think most everyone who fell in love with Celine during the PP era feels the same way. Heidi is just doing the same thing he did at YSL. A one trick pony. I almost ran and bought another belt bag too but then felt the same way as you so now I’m eyeing a garden party instead. LOL

  • Reply
    Catherine
    October 1, 2018 at 3:58 pm

    Kathy,

    I have been a reader of your blog for over a decade and I wholeheartedly agree. What is happening at Celine is a tragedy and I welcome the day that Pheobe re-emerges with perhaps her own line? at another brand? Hedi is not innovative or interesting but sells and there is and will always be a market for his 80’s heroin rocker chic. I wish he would just take that look and sell it under his own brand instead of taking over legacy houses like YSL and Celine. Celine was a brand that was made for women by women that made them feel beautiful and sophisticated without showing too much skin. It was a brand for confident women and female beauty and not for the male gaze. Completely destroying the legacy and the brand DNA of Celine seems so insulting. I think he would have fared better at Versace.

    • Reply
      Amy
      October 1, 2018 at 4:04 pm

      Omg, that’s a perfect description of it. “80’s heroin rocker chic”~!!

  • Reply
    Elizabeth
    October 1, 2018 at 6:23 pm

    The Slimane collection is a better sleep aid than melatonin. Unfortunately HS rarely hits anything either usable by many or extreme and fresh – and those are the only designs that leave a mark. I find his designs chic for the already chic in the most establishment way (skinny, young, barely edgy), which is marketable but hardly interesting.

  • Reply
    Philip
    October 1, 2018 at 10:27 pm

    Felt like I was watching an old Dior Homme, or rather a Saint Laurent (Not YSL!) show. LOL.

  • Reply
    Anonymous
    October 2, 2018 at 3:49 am

    Completely agree. Disappointed, but going to buy some more knitwear and shirts from the last PP collection!

  • Reply
    Jane
    October 3, 2018 at 8:47 am

    Wow! Hedi Slimane’s show is not getting many positive reviews (if any)! It does seem very similar to his previous work and such a departure from Phoebe Philo. I’m not a big Celine fan (probably because it really does seem intended for a much taller person), but I loved that she was forging a different kind of fashion path. It’s really disappointing.

  • Reply
    wanderlustgal
    October 3, 2018 at 9:12 pm

    Hedi basically picked up everything he has done in the past and brought it over to his new employer. Goodbye beautifully made wearable clothes for women.

  • Reply
    Courtney
    October 11, 2018 at 9:06 am

    I feel like Hedi is bringing too much “sex” to Celine. I liked Celine because it felt like power dressing for women by women rather than power dressing for women by men. Looking at Spring 2018 vs. 2019 is really stark. It didn’t feel like looking at Celine but rather just any other brand. I think that with designers moving so much between brands that many of them begin to sort of bleed into one another, it’s becoming harder to see some of the differences in the lines and their heritage.

  • Reply
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