Interview with Marianne

Among others, Tomas Maier and Didier Lecoanet were my school mates! And my beloved mannequin model making teacher was a former Premiere d’Atelier with Yves Saint Laurent. We were living the last years of that traditional era I guess. The dream of many was to found a Maison.

I worked as a seconde main (seamtress) for quite a while at Givenchy, the house of Monsieur Hubert de Givenchy. The feeling of working there was a mix of being on a mission (of excellence at every minute) and the persistent fear of disappointing Monsieur. A lot of pressure really! I remember precisely an evening gown that I was assigned making the Roulotté Hem for. I had to make eighteen meters of Roulotté, exactly the same as on an Hermes scarf! It took me half a week or so…

Anyway, everyone in the Atelier was wearing a white blouse, and you would not talk directly to the Premiere if not asked a question. The hierarchy was strict. You could feel the thickness of silence. About thirty ladies working in the same room, each of them knowing exactly what they had to do, just like an army. At least that was the impression I had. It was a structured world. Making a difference was not an easy task. And catching attention was not welcome, at all.

After, I worked for a short period as a skirt maker for Chanel. The skirt that would be part of their famous Tailleur. Clearly, the skirt was an accessory to the jacket. All the same, no matter the fabric. I would be given a box with the pieces of outside fabric already cut, an entire piece of silk that I had to cut the lining from, a zipper, 1 snap button, one flat horn button, and a spool of matching silk thread. All had to be hand stitched, in and out, fabric and slippery silk lining, hand made hidden button eye….talk about craftsmanship! Of course, no flaw would be admitted. Or you would pay for the wasted precious fabric! This was a very good training. The training for excellence, with no room for any flaw or excuses. Strictly nothing but perfection.

Unfortunately, I don’t really know about haute couture today…the only thing I know is that Instagram *stars” get seated front row! And as Pierre Bergé (Yves Saint Laurent’s life and business partner) likes to tell, the luxury industry barons have turned the name of unique artiste into common brands. See Christian Dior, turned into Dior. Yves Saint Laurent turned into Saint Laurent, and and so on. Maybe Chanel is still there…but regardless, there still is a very high savoir-faire in France.

I’d love to hear your thoughts about the major changes you have seen in houses such as Chanel, Hermes, etc. What has happened as these brands have evolved, and grown larger? 

Well, thats’a tough one. In my experience, there was shift in the early 2000’s, from product focus to brand focus. That’s what I have witnessed at both Chanel and Hermes. Both maisons have made changes , maybe in slightly different ways, but the final result is the same.

Chanel: They started with taking back their franchised stores licenses. All stores have been under corporate management for years. They have trained their employees to use the same wording everywhere. I still can’t stand it when they say value instead of price! They keep placing names as Mademoiselle Chanel, or Monsieur Lagerfeld as often as they can in any sales conversation. It sounds hilarious to me, but well…all this its branding!

They have added so many layers of non product items, that you don’t even see the product any longer. They call it experience. I would call this service…or waste. A glass of water, service. Excessive packaging? Waste. The ribbon, camellia flower, card, etc… that you pay for of course, all those will end at best in a storage drawer, at worst in the trash.

As for quality, I don’t think Chanel bags are worth what they retail for, but well, they are pretty cool bags with a very high level of recognition, so …okay. Their clothing is of course still good, but nothing compared with what it was twenty years ago. Chanel has entered an industrial era, period. Remember I used to hand cut the silk lining of those skirts?

I do think Chanel shoes are really well made. There is a very high standard of shoes mass production in Italy. Italians are good at making shoes, and are also good at outsourcing some parts of the production process that will not lower the quality of final product.

Hermes: I really LOVED it when each Hermes store had their own design and identity. In Gstaad, it was a cosy mountain style little shop, with a fabulous basement floor filled with unexpected treasures. In Saint Tropez, it was such a charming relaxed and full packed shop set on the ground floor of a village house with freshly painted white wooden shutters. It was an actual fisherman house. In Saint Moritz it was that typical Engadiner house, with tiny windows and very thick walls, etc….

Of course you would find more beach towels and pareos in Saint Tropez, and more cashmere plaids in Saint Moritz! That was part of the journey. That would speak for the ability of Hermes to fit any kind of place, any kind of lifestyle. In other words, Hermes would fit YOUR life. I would call it a transversal luxury.

I also really loved it when the sales associates and store managers would know me everywhere I was before even once, (not just my name) and start a real conversation with me and then would help me with any request I had. They also would give me good advicesand make pertinent suggestions for new purchases.
I felt welcome as a person and valued as customer. This is over of course . Everywhere in Europe. To the exception of two Hermes store where I still buy most of my Hermes bags, shoes, RTW, and accessories: Nice and Monte Carlo.

Also, they would take my order for any bag, they would call you after months, and they would HOLD my bag until my next visit, would it be for weeks or months. This is long gone! As for quality, knowing that Hermes runs about 40 productions sites in France says it all. Its is ten times more than 20 years ago. They even have a factory just for Kelly bags. It’s a big frustration for a passionate collector of handbags as I am, to know that. The past has gone, and just remains the myth.

I can feel that Hermes has put a lot of efforts in transfering human intervention to automated processes, It shows in all aspects of their bags. From the look and feel of their Togo leather , to the thread and stitches on the handles of a new Birkin…

I don’t mean to sound like a veteran. It won’t help anyway. At the end of the day one can be an aficionado of vintage box Kelly bags, because of the story they carry, and still like to get a sparkling Birkin from the store today, because of a fresh new color! I am fortunate enough to know where to go, and get both kinds !

So finally, I don’t really care about quality changes because its the organic evolution of the product.What I do regret is the sweet flavor of luxury that was unspoken, untold, and understated, yet totally embracing the whole Monde Hermes.

What is your advice for someone who is looking to build a luxury collection that will last them a lifetime? Where should they look, what pieces should they buy?